Climb Mera Peak, Island Peak and the Amphu Labtsa

Nepal, Climbing, 27 days - from $4,115 (land only)

Climbing
High On Island Peak in NepalMera and Island Peak climbing trip

Experience that speaks for itself

KE have been running holidays to Nepal for over 25 years and have enabled over a thousand people to realise their dream of standing on the summit of a Himalayan 6000-metre peak.

  • Climb 2 of the finest trekking peaks in Nepal in 1 great holiday
  • Climb Mera and Island Peak and trek across the Amphu Labtsa
  • High and wild trekking in the remote Hongu Valley below Chamlang
  • Trekking through the Everest region to Namche Bazaar
  • Holiday price includes all meals and airport transfers

This exceptional high altitude Himalayan climbing holiday follows the route of our classic Mera Peak expedition as far as the mountain's summit. Then, after descending to the Mera La, we trek eastwards into the mountain wilderness of the Upper Hongu Valley. Trekking beneath the towering ramparts of Chamlang, with Lhotse and Everest clearly visible ahead, we reach the sacred lakes at Panch Pokhri. From here, we make the tough crossing of the technical Amphu Labsta (5700m) and trek into the Imja Valley, where we set up our basecamp below Island Peak (6189m). We have 2 days to climb this excellent peak which lies close to the imposing south face of Lhotse. Trekking out on the Everest Trail by way of the Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar, we complete our circuit trek at Lukla. More than a climbing holiday, this is also one of Nepal's finest and most challenging mountain journeys, set amongst breathtaking scenery.

For some fantastic ideas to extend your holiday in Nepal, from riding elephants in Chitwan to tours in Bhutan or Tibet - check out extensions

Is this holiday for you?

This trekking and climbing holiday involves a great variety of trekking conditions. On the first few days of the walk-in, we will trek through forests of rhododendron and pine followed by more open landscapes, including yak pastures and grassy ridges. Crossing the Zatwra La, we will encounter some steeper ground of turf and scree which may be snow covered. The valleys of the upper Hinku and Hongu rivers are uninhabited except for a few hardy Sherpas who run simple tea houses in the season and all trekking groups have to be self-sufficient. The crossing of the Amphu Labsa is a mountaineering challenge in itself (see below) but for the majority of the trekking route, underfoot conditions are not particularly difficult. However, overall this is a very demanding trek on account of the fact that we have seven continuous nights at over 5000 metres in a very remote location.

 

Climbing difficulty

 

Mera Peak: When climbed via the normal route on the north face, Mera is not a technically difficult peak, rarely steeper than 30 degrees, except for the final climb to the summit where fixed lines are used to safeguard this last 30 or 40 metres. Ski sticks provide the best possible assistance in soft snow conditions and a single walking axe is all that is required if conditions are firmer. Although any climbing at these altitudes is strenuous and exhausting, our proven acclimatisation programme and our use of a high camp at 5800 metres will give you the best possible chance of reaching the summit. The approximate Alpine grade of Mera Peak would be 'F'.

Amphu Labtsa pass: This is more technical than Mera or Island Peak. It will be necessary to surmount a series of ice steps (safeguarded by a fixed line) to reach the rocky crest, and from the top you will make an abseil or a lower of around 35 metres (120 feet) to reach fixed lines which are used to safeguard the final descent of approximately 300 metres (1000 feet) over 30 - 40 degree snow and rock to easier slopes. The approximate Alpine grade of the Amphu Labtsa pass would be 'D'

Island Peak: This mountain though lower in altitude than Mera Peak is more technically demanding and involves climbing up to 45 degree snow slopes and an exposed summit ridge. Fixed lines are used on all exposed sections but experience of roped climbing in exposed situations and competence on such terrain, is required. The approximate Alpine grade of the Amphu Labtsa pass would be 'PD'

If you are in any doubt as to your capability for these climbs, please contact the KE office.

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KE Adventure Travel, 32 Lake Road, Keswick, Cumbria, CA12 5DQ, England
tel +44 (0)17687 73966 USA/Canada Toll Free 1 888 630 4415

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