Mera Peak, Island Peak and the Amphu Labtsa
- Climb two of the finest trekking peaks in Nepal
- High and wild trekking above 5000 metres
- Crossing the challenging Amphu Labtsa
- Trek through the Everest region to Namche Bazaar
- Climb Mera Peak and Island Peak
This exceptional high altitude Himalayan adventure follows the route of our classic Mera Peak expedition as far as the mountain's summit. Then, after descending to the Mera La, we head eastwards into the mountain wilderness of the Upper Hongu Valley. Trekking beneath the towering ramparts of Chamlang, with Lhotse and Everest clearly visible ahead, we reach the sacred lakes at Panch Pokhri. From here, we make the tough crossing of the technical Amphu Labsta (5700m) and drop down into the Imja Valley, where we set up our basecamp below Island Peak (6189m). We have 2 days to climb this excellent peak which lies close to the imposing south face of Lhotse. Descending the Everest Trail by way of the Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar, we complete our circuit trek at Lukla. More than a climbing trip, this is also one of Nepal's finest and most challenging mountain journeys, set amongst breathtaking scenery.
For some fantastic ideas to extend your holiday in Nepal, from riding elephants in Chitwan to tours in Bhutan or Tibet - check out extensions
Is this holiday for you?
This trip offers a great variety of trekking conditions. On the first few days of the walk-in, between Lukla and Tagnag, there are delightful forests of rhododendron and pine, whilst higher up there are the uninhabited alpine valleys of the upper Hinku and Hongu rivers, and on the return leg to Namche Bazaar and Lukla the route follows a section of the well-trodden Everest Trail. As there is little chance of buying supplies on the way, all trekking groups have to be self-sufficient and, probably more importantly, the team of Sherpas and porters need to be sufficiently experienced and well-equipped for the high altitude trekking that this trip involves. There are good trails for most of the route, including a well-marked trail in the snow leading over the Mera La. Once in the upper Hongu Valley, although the paths are less used, the underfoot conditions are still relatively easy. The trek is given its STRENUOUS grade on account of the fact that the trip involves up to seven continuous nights at over 5000 metres (16,400ft) in a very remote location and because of the ascents of two 6000 metre peaks.
Mera Peak: When climbed via the normal route on the north face, Mera is not a technically difficult peak, rarely steeper than 30 degrees, except for the final climb to the summit where fixed lines are used to safeguard this last 30 or 40 metres. Ski sticks provide the best possible assistance in soft snow conditions and a single walking axe is all that is required if conditions are firmer. Although any climbing at these altitudes is strenuous and exhausting, our proven acclimatisation programme and our use of a high camp at 5800 metres (19,028ft) will give you the best possible chance of reaching the summit. We will climb in ropes of four to five, splitting the group between the guides and the Sherpas.
Amphu Labtsa pass: This is more technical than Mera Peak. It will be necessary to surmount a series of ice steps (safeguarded by a fixed line) to reach the rocky crest, and from the top you will make an abseil or a lower of around 35 metres (120 feet) to reach fixed lines which are used to safeguard the final descent of approximately 300 metres (1000 feet) over 30 - 40 degree snow and rock to easier slopes.
Island Peak: This mountain though lower in altitude than Mera Peak is more technically demanding and involves climbing up to 45 degree snow slopes and an exposed summit ridge. Fixed lines are used on all exposed sections but experience of roped climbing in exposed situations and competence on such terrain, is required.
If you are in any doubt as to your capability for this climb, please contact the KE office.