After I left Addis I set off on my own, heading south through Ethiopia. I stopped for a couple of nights in Arba Minch to admire the two lakes, one red and one blue, separated by a ridge, and then made my way to the border where I crossed into Kenya. A rattly bus-ride and half a dozen police checkpoints later the desert of red sand and black rock was behind me and I'd reached the forested volcano of Marsabit, complete with morning mists, leopard tracks and a campsite I shared with a troupe of baboons. South of Marsabit was more desert, home to the nomadic pastoralist tribes, through which I hitched lifts on rice trucks until I arrived in the Central Highlands and carried on down the Rift Valley, stopping in Naivasha to kayak on the lake and to cycle and hike through Hell's Gate, just metres from giraffe and antelope and warthogs. I even got a climb in - up a sandstone column, complete with views of zebra! - before I left the bush for Nairobi.