Day 1

After all the build-up and the busyness of our big day, we were eager to escape on a quick trip to Italy’s prettiest lake. Starting with an early arrival into Milan’s Malpensa airport, we caught the train to the town of Como which was really straightforward and enjoyed a gorgeous lunch before taking the open-top ferry to the small town of Lenno, halfway up the lake’s west shore, our central location for this holiday.

The journey was really simple, and we took everything at our own pace, having had an early start to the day. The town of Como is naturally busy as it is the main transport hub for the lake, but we were happy to enjoy an ice cream and watch life pass us by while waiting for the ferry. With the backdrop of towering mountains and the glistening lake beyond, waiting for the ferry was also a good opportunity to familiarise ourselves with the timetables and plan when to use our pre-arranged ferry vouchers for the days ahead.

Day 2

Refreshed and ready to explore, we stepped straight out of our hotel and set off on a short walk to Villa Balbianello and what a spectacular start to the day it was. Perched dramatically on a wooded promontory surrounded by the shimmering waters of Lake Como, the villa is every bit as enchanting as its setting.

Built in the 17th century on the ruins of a Franciscan monastery for Cardinal Durini, the villa has passed through several notable owners over the years. Among them was Count Guido Monzino, the celebrated explorer behind the first Italian ascent of Everest in 1973. On his death, he bequeathed the property to the FAI, Italy’s equivalent of the National Trust. Today, visitors can wander through rooms filled with fascinating artefacts and memorabilia from his expeditions to places such as Kilimanjaro, the North Pole and Nepal.

After exploring the beautifully manicured gardens, we opted for a scenic return by boat to Lenno, just a kilometre away, rather than retracing our steps, which was a glorious way to soak up even more of the lake’s charm.

Next, after another gelato, we downloaded our GPX tracks and studied our map and route notes for the 1hr/1hr30 walk ahead to Tremezzo. This was a lovely route that started on the ‘Green Way’ walkway. After 10 minutes we were walking up and away from the lake (and other tourists) through winding streets. We followed a short detour to the house where Mussolini and Claretta Petucci were found dead in April 1945. There is a plaque and short description of their last days on the gate here.

Continuing to climb to the baroque church Sant’Abbondio we stopped to admire great views from Bellagio to Balbianello and the huge 2,409m Mount Grigna. Next we followed a mule track through fields, olive groves and fig trees and felt like we were really discovering the real day-to-day local life of this region. This was a route we would have never thought to follow without our route notes.

On arriving in Tremezzo, we took time to explore the magnificent grounds of Villa Carlotta (see map above). Its expansive gardens are a true highlight, divided into distinct sections, from tranquil bamboo groves and fragrant citrus gardens to a lush valley of ferns, each offering something new to discover. It’s easy to lose track of time wandering among such botanical beauty.

A sudden downpour swept in while we were exploring, but it only added to the atmosphere. With plenty of towering trees providing shelter, we were able to wait it out, and once the rain passed, the gardens felt even more vibrant, the air fresh and crystal clear.

Afterwards, we hopped on our pre-booked ferry back to Lenno and rounded off the day with a relaxed dinner at one of the town’s inviting lakeside restaurants.

Total: 10km, 300m elevation gain 

Day 3

Each day began with a leisurely continental breakfast at the hotel before we strolled down to Lenno’s pier to catch the ferry across to the Bellagio peninsula, often dubbed the “pearl of the lake” thanks to its unique position at the meeting point of Lake Como’s three branches.

Our four-hour walk started along the eastern side of the peninsula, revealing fresh perspectives along the lake’s eastern arm. Following our route notes and GPX track, we climbed steadily out of town (around 250 metres up), where we were rewarded with sweeping views across the peninsula. Looking north, we could even spot the lake’s highest peak, Mount Legnone, rising to 2,610 metres. It was the perfect spot to pause for a well-earned lunch at the Perlo Panorama hotel, a popular hub for road cyclists. Watching riders tackle the surrounding climbs, we couldn’t help but make a mental note to return one day with our own bikes.

From here, we descended westward, with views stretching across to Tremezzo and the paths we’d explored the day before. Reaching the lakeshore, we turned back towards Bellagio, stopping en route to visit the elegant gardens of Villa Melzi. Built between 1808 and 1812 for Francesco Melzi d’Eril—vice-president of the Napoleonic Cisalpine Republic—the villa and its grounds offer a fascinating blend of history and natural beauty. A visit to the orangery reveals a small museum filled with Napoleonic memorabilia, reflecting Melzi’s close ties to Napoleon.

Soon after, we found ourselves back in Bellagio’s postcard-perfect streets, lined with colourful buildings and an array of high-end boutiques, art galleries and jewellery shops. It was the ideal setting to unwind with a glass of wine before boarding the 16:40 ferry back to Lenno, rounding off another memorable day on the lake.

Total: 10km, 316m elevation gain

Day 4

This was our final day of walking and, looking back, it was our favourite day. We caught the ferry over to the eastern leg of the lake to walk on one of the most ancient paths on the lakeside. This path was originally created by the Roman legionnaires and then improved by pilgrims seeking the isolated abbeys of the area. This section of the “Sentiero-del-viandante” (path of the wayfarer) trail is waymarked with sighs of red and white stripes and orange arrows.

After following our route notes out of the town of Bellano, we reached the Orrido di Bellano gorge. This was a total surprise – a huge deep natural gorge with a hydroelectric power plant inside. For a couple of euros we could follow a man-made route on suspended paths and bridge inside the gorge. We would definitely recommend popping in for a visit.

Back on our route looking out for the orange marking and signs with Sentiero del Viandante we reached our first muleteers’ path to some welcome shade underneath olive groves and small vines. Passing the isolated Addolorata chapel we then took a break at a well located picnic bench to enjoy the view. In the town of Gittana we could stop at one of the many free local clean water drinking fountains and re-fill our bottles.

One of the day’s standout moments came as we reached Vezio Castle. Here, we explored the historic dungeons, ancient walls and the imposing keep, climbing to the top rewarded us with breathtaking panoramic views across both the eastern and western arms of the lake.

Our route then descended along a dramatic path into the charming town of Varenna, where we joined the iconic lakeside walkway suspended above the water. It was the perfect place to pause and enjoy a well-earned pizza, a glass of wine and a scoop of gelato. After catching the ferry back to Lenno, we enjoyed a swim in the still slightly chilly waters (it was only May) for the perfect end to an unforgettable walking adventure.

Total: 11km 446m elevation gain

Day 5

Our final morning brought with it the inevitable departure from the stunning shores of Lake Como. Opting for the more economical public bus back to Como, we found the journey to be both busy and winding - an experience that, in hindsight, made us wish we had chosen the more scenic ferry. (I would recommend the ferry back if the times work with flights etc).

From Como, it was an easy and seamless train journey back to Milan, bringing our adventure to a close. As we made our way home, we couldn’t help but feel we had only just begun to uncover the beauty of this remarkable region. It was an experience that definitely left us eager to return and explore even more.