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The 'Maglic' of Bosnia

Sutjeska is one of just two National Parks in Bosnia and Herzegovina and is a very precious area for many reasons for this country.  It is loca... Read more
The 'Maglic' of Bosnia

Sutjeska is one of just two National Parks in Bosnia and Herzegovina and is a very precious area for many reasons for this country.  It is located in the south-eastern part of Bosnia and Herzegovina and was founded in 1962. This area was a huge battleground in World War II. The battle happened between the Germans and Tito's Partisans in 1943. The Tjentiste area (the name of one of local villages) is a place where you can find a monument in commemoration of all those partisans who were killed in the battle. This place is not as frequently visited now as much as it was in Yugoslavia time (between 300.000-500.000 visitors per year).

However it's good for us, hikers and mountaineers as this natural triangle of mountains Zelengora, Volujak and Maglic is very captivating and attractive. Last summer I spent a lot of time in Sutjeska National Park, so let me introduce you to this beautiful corner of Bosnia and Herzegovina...


Zelengora is maybe the most gentle mountain of the three and is hiding many secrets. It is most known for it's many glacial lakes. Many local people will say that most beautiful one is Orlovacko lake, but the fact that there is a dirt road all the way to the lake, has slightly ruined it's natural look As a big majority of Bosnian people don't really like to hike it maybe one of the reasons why they prefer this lake among many others. Kotlanicko, same as Stirinsko lake are lying in totally untouched nature and you need about 2-3 hours of walk to reach them. And it is worth the walking!!
The next day I went to the highest peak of Zelengora. A good start point is Orlovacko lake and from that point you need about 3 hours to reach Bregoc (2014m) the highest Zelengora peak. This not too often climbed peak, gives you the opportunity to see a big part of this beautiful mountain and while I'm sitting on the top, eating, I realise why this mountain is called Zelengora (in English it would be Green Mountain). It really suits her!!

From Donje Bare lake you then hike to Planinica (1794m) peak, from where we had great views of Volujak ridge and Sutjeska river valley. Planinica is also known as a place where often you can see chamoas (wild goats).  From Planinica the trail goes first downhill and then easily uphill towards the ridge of Tovarnica to Ugljesin peak (1852m).


Volujak is the second highest mountain in Bosnia with a peak of 2337m. It is a really challenging mountain to climb.  Deep in the mountain there is still numerous number of old houses (called katuni), where people still live during the summer. They produce milk and milk products from their sheep and cows and later in winter they come down from the mountain to villages on lower heights. Volujak is actually quite a long ridge, most of the time sitting higher than 2000m, which stretches opposite from Maglic (the highest Bosnian peak). When the people walk on the ridges of Volujak, you are crossing from Bosnia to Montenegro from time to time, without even knowing it. Whichever peak or side of Volujak choose, you have a guaranteed couple of hours of sweating and great hiking!


After a few days hiking on surrounding peaks, it feels good to walk through the Primeval forest for a change. Perucica (Peruchica) is one of two remaining primeval forests in Europe and it is hiding amazing things. Jumping over streams and admiring the really huge trees (some of them are older than 400 years) we simply stay speechless. Perucica is one of rare places in Bosnia with  huge protection, so any kind of man influences are strictly forbiden. Even trees which fall on a path are not allowed to be removed, so you have to jump over them.  Perucica is also hiding very rich flora and fauna. A lot of colourful flowers grow and many different animal footprints in the mud near streams. Walking through Perucica is not physically demanding, but is very, very interesting.


The best thing comes at the end. Maglic! The highest Bosnian peak. It is 2386m high and is a real challenge. From three approaches to this peak, I choose the one from the Lokva Derneciste direction, the most frequently used one. From Tjentiste village, the dirt road goes across Dragos sedlo. The first part of the ascent we go through pine forest and after an hour of walking the main part starts. After the rock face of Maglic has shown in all his beauty, as you get closer, it simply gets more and more impressive. When you get underneath it, you ascend by a rocky section and Via Ferrata and after 2-3 hours of scrambling we came out on a ridge. The peak is now just 20 minutes away and finally we can see our goal. The view from the top is extremely rewarding. Volujak, Zelengora, Cvrsnica, Bjelasnica on the Bosnian side, Durmitor, Bioc on the Montenegrian side all look incredible on a clear day.

Bosnia from the war in '90-es has a lot minefields but area of Sutjeska National Park was far away from all ex-frontlines, so it is totally safe to walk in these mountain areas. So if anyone planning to visit this beautiful area of Bosnia and Herzegovina, you will not be sorry. I enjoyed it, I hope you will too.

>> All adventures in Bosnia

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