The Quieter Side of India: Trekking in the Indian Himalaya

If you think you know India, well think again. What comes to mind when you think about India? The crazy bustling streets of Delhi, ... Read more
The Quieter Side of India: Trekking in the Indian Himalaya

If you think you know India, well think again.

What comes to mind when you think about India? The crazy bustling streets of Delhi, or the majesty (and crowds) of the Taj Mahal? Temples and tigers? What if I told you that there is an area that is so peaceful and quiet that you will not see a single soul, other than local villagers, for a whole 9 days?

Image

Welcome to the Indian Himalaya - In the Shadow of Nanda Devi

I was quite nervous on the days leading up to my trip. I’d never travelled to India before, and many of my friends who had travelled there were trying to reassure me that I would love it. I think many people have many misconceptions about India, myself included.

We first arrived in Delhi to the usual chaos! Cars, mopeds and tuk tuks all vying for the same space, beeping and honking their horns at every given opportunity, with people weaving in and out of the minimal gaps left in the traffic on foot. After we checked into our hotel, we wandered around the streets with our guide, taking in all the sights and smells of this remarkable city. When travelling in India, you really have to embrace the chaos and just go with it. Weirdly, amid all the chaos was a sense of calm – everyone was just going about their day and didn’t seem phased by all that was going on around them.

After a good night’s sleep, it was an early alarm to start our adventure into the mountains! We boarded our train and relaxed as we travelled into the wild. The train journey took 6 hours, followed by a 3-hour car journey, and that was only to the half way point.

Image

Soon enough, it was time to start our trek and we couldn’t wait! The first afternoons walking and subsequent few days were a nice gentle introduction to what would follow. We walked beside rivers, through remote mountain villages and always made sure we had enough time to stop for tea and bask in the sun.

Our group were lucky enough to have two weeks of glorious weather, an Indian summer no less, with daily temperatures soaring into the very high 20s with clear night skies perfect for stargazing. A few mornings high up on a mountain ridge we did wake to a frost, so the days are warm and the nights are cold. A down jacket and good sleeping bag are essential.

Each afternoon as we wandered into our next campsite, our tents were there waiting for us, as well as the beaming smiles of our trek crew. They couldn’t do enough for us and even when we tried to help it was clear that they had their routine and we were just confusing things! The speed and efficiency in which they packed the camp away every day was absolutely flawless. We soon fell into our daily routine and the days and miles just ticked by as we walked further and further into the mountains and away from civilisation. There was no phone signal (unless you had an e-sim or used data, I did neither) so it was a perfect way to switch off from everything and really immerse yourself in the experience and simplicity of the journey.

Image

Over the 9 days of trekking we covered just over 40 miles with 5000m of ascent, reaching a height of almost 4000m, with a few of the hiking days crossing over 3000+m passes. The terrain underfoot is very mixed, from dirt jeep tracks to steep ascents and descents on almost invisible trails with trees roots and loose rocks. If you are used to walking in the Lake District, Eryri (Snowdonia) or the Scottish highlands and have a good level of fitness, then this is the trip for you.

In the spring, you will be treating to the native rhododendron forests being in bloom, whilst in the autumn, our group walked through alpine meadows where some of the leaves had just begun to turn with their beautiful orange and yellow glow.

The only people we saw were local villagers going about their daily lives as we walked on to our next camp, always with a smile and “Namaste”. Occasionally we would cross paths with shepherds bringing their flocks down from the high passes and into lower pastures for the winter. It’s quite remarkable to go from the hustle and bustle of Delhi, to high mountain passes with no one else around for miles. Occasionally you may see local trekkers, as some of the paths we were walking on have been there for centuries and often used on pilgrimages to holy sites and temples, but as it was Diwali during our trek all local people were down in the towns and villages celebrating so we had the route to ourselves!

Image

Nanda Devi itself is considered sacred and the name means “Bliss-Giving Goddess” and is regarded as the patron goddess of the Grahwal and Kumaon Himalayas. The mountain, as well as the circle of peaks that surrounding it form the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, and the Nanda Devi national park, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Another spectacular sight you will be lucky enough to see is the Panchachuli peaks. These 5 mountains also have spiritual significance, described as a place “where mythology meets majesty in the heart of the Himalayas” and are sacred in local folklore.

Image

Title

Image

My top tips:

  1. Take earplugs: On occasion, you will hear dogs barking in the valleys below (or even closer to the campsites in the villages). If you are a light sleeper, earplugs are a must.

  2. Thermarest: Although we were provided with good camping mats, I still used my thermarest for a bit of extra comfort and was invaluable when up on the high ridge as it added warmth.

  3. Solar panel: I took power banks and a solar panel to recharge them along the route. As we got into camps in the early afternoon, we still had a good 4 hours or so of daylight so used that time to recharge power banks which came in quite handy!

  4. Book an extension : The trip itself doesn’t really include much (if any) sightseeing. As it was my first time to India, I wanted to make the most of the experience and my time there, so booked a one-day extension at the end of the trip to visit the Taj Mahal and Agra Fort. The logistics were really good and very easy to follow. The Taj is incredibly busy (as you would expect) but such an incredible sight to behold and well worth the visit.

Image

India is such a vibrant, immersive and diverse country. I know I only visited a very tiny part of it, but I would definitely go back to explore more. I found the country and the people to be incredibly captivating and have returned home having very much enjoyed my time there and would encourage everyone who is thinking of going to just book the trip. You will not regret it.

Image
Footer logos
Your Wishlist
No Wishlist Items

Start your next adventure.

Click the heart icon on the search or holiday pages to save a holiday to your wishlist.

Holiday Search