Six Days, Six Villages: What Makes the Menalon Trail Special

Having visited various parts of Greece a numerous times before, it’s fair to say I felt as though I knew what to expect from the Menalon Trail. Howe... Read more
Six Days, Six Villages: What Makes the Menalon Trail Special

Having visited various parts of Greece a numerous times before, it’s fair to say I felt as though I knew what to expect from the Menalon Trail. However, after having recently returned from this fabulous week of walking, I’m delighted to say I have been proven wrong. This quiet corner of mainland Greece is the perfect antidote to the busier Greek Islands that I know so well, and it made for a perfect getaway of point-to-point walking with my sister.

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Day 1

The Menalon Trail is a far cry from the bustling tourist towns and resorts on the coast of the Peloponnese peninsula but thankfully, it is easily reached from the UK with many flights operating to Athens and Kalamata. From either arrival airport, the journey by road is long but worth it. We opted to fly into Athens from Manchester with Easyjet. The Menalon Trail begins in the village of Stemnitsa; a beautiful and peaceful start point. To arrive in a village that is known for producing silverware; of which there are a number of small shops selling their wares dotted through quaint and cobbled streets, it already felt like a wonderfully authentic way to begin the week and a promise of what was to follow.

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Day 2

Armed with the self-guided app, our route notes and a map, we set off on first day of walking the Menalon Trail. The combination of waymarks and the app makes navigation comfortingly simple, leaving us free to settle into the rhythm of the trail. We began with a gentle zig-zag descent towards the Lousios Gorge - its name already familiar to us, but nothing could have prepared me for the reality of it. Then, suddenly, there it was: the Prodromos Monastery, somehow it firmly clings onto the sheer cliff-side, providing a fantastic outlook to the gorge below. It’s one of those sights that quite literally stops you in your tracks. After a steady morning of downhill walking, it’s the perfect place to pause, breathe and let the scale of it all sink in.

The second half of the day is a steady ascent, broken up by a visit to the New Philosophou Monastery - a quieter, contemplative contrast to Prodromos. Eventually, after a steep stepped section that gets the legs working, we reached the Open Air Water Power Museum, an unexpectedly charming waypoint before the final stretch into Dimitsana. After a satisfying first day on the trail, Dimitsana is exactly the place I want to rest, refuel and gather myself for the journey ahead. The small, bustling town hosts a number of restaurants and tavernas with plenty of Greek dishes on offer and menus that offer no English whatsoever – it was wonderfully and unashamedly authentic.

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Day 3

Our second day of walking sees us climb up into the alpine forests; full of many varieties of mushroom. The day’s high point - literally and figuratively - was Pliovouni, the summit of the entire Menalon Trail at 1,643m. From here, we were treated to an interrupted view of the region of Arcadia which is mostly covered in dense, lush forest and a world away from some of the drier, karst Greek islands; the closest of which are the Ionian Islands to the west. The latter half of our day had us descend gradually through woodland trails passing by homesteads to the very small, very sleepy village of Elati. It was our longest day, covering roughly 20km, and reaching our accommodation felt like its own reward. Set in a prime spot with panoramic balcony views, it offered the perfect end to the journey, complete with a pool for the still-energetic and even a sauna for those seeking a little extra indulgence.

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Day 4

We woke to a steady drizzle on our third day of walking and given the time of year we travelled (late October) it was not completely surprising. Still, the air was mild enough that a simple T-shirt beneath a waterproof jacket did the job, and much of the route unfolded beneath a protective canopy of trees. The moisture brought its own advantages: fire salamanders emerged onto the trail, which are amazingly well-camouflaged in the leafy foliage. We definitely had to be careful of where we stepped!

Autumn was in full performance mode too, and due to the time of year we visited, the changing colours of the leaves made for beautiful, vibrant scenery to an downhill walk toward our next stop, Vytina. Our walk was completed by lunchtime which meant we had an afternoon to explore this pretty town. The main square was buzzing with locals under canopies with outdoor-heaters aplenty which we thought were slightly overkill but then again, my sister and I are very used to a Cumbrian climate.

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Day 5

We woke up to see the sunshine had returned today; hurrah! Our route shadowed the Mylaon River, following a blend of rocky paths and soft woodland trails as we made our way toward the village of Nymfasia. As an animal lover, I was delighted to see an abundance of goats grazing along this stretch of the Menalon Trail. As our self-guided app and detailed route notes reminded us, these herds and their sheep counterparts are often accompanied by guard dogs that keep predators at bay and the flock neatly together. As with the day before, we reached Nymfasia just in time for lunch at the only tavern the village has to offer, where we ate alongside locals. Nymfasia doesn’t have any accommodation therefore we stay a couple of kilometres outside of this village and further along the Menalon Trail.

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Day 6

Another day, another walk and onto the next village we went. This time we headed to Valtesiniko. A name that I had to practice a few times before I could say it out loud with some confidence. As with all of our previous days, we had our luggage packed and ready go after breakfast. It’s always worth checking with the host that they have the correct name and address of your onward accommodation but it was pleasing to know they always had the correct information listed.

We had a steep climb up to Kernitsas Monastery and approximately halfway through the day, we stopped by the Hermitage of Sfyrida. As with the Prodromos Monastery we visited on Day 2, this hermitage sits nestled into the side of the gorge but on a much smaller scale. We pass through a small village called Magouliana on this day; similar in size to Nymfasia. From here, we dipped in and out of woodland trails before a steep climb on stone steps up and into hillside settlement of Valtesiniko. Valtesiniko is a charming village with a few restaurant options. For our evening meal, we feasted on lamb souvlaki and feta cheese pies; heaven!

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Day 7

Our final day of walking is upon us. This week seems to have well and truly flown by, in the best way possible. We had some rain overnight which meant the trails were a little muddy underfoot for the first few hours of the morning but they quickly dried up. We said our goodbyes to Aphrodite, our lovely host at our Valtesiniko accommodation and headed uphill to the ruins of Valtesiniko Castle, which perches above the village. After reaching our high point of the day, the next few kilometres are mostly in dense woodland with little viewpoints. Approximately 3km from our final destination however, a view of the village of Lagkadia opens up before us. Our end point is in sight! After a rocky descent, with some scree sections in parts, we officially make it to the end point of the Menalon Trail, which is in the centre of Lagkadia village. Locals sitting in nearby cafes, offered their congratulations us on our achievement, which was the cherry on the top of the cake.

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Day 8

After an early start, we set off on our journey back to Athens from Lagkadia via Tripoli. We found public transport ran smoothly and frequently in Greece which made for a seamless final stretch back to the airport. What a week it had been! We’ve had a rewarding point to point trip, without the hassle of carrying all of our belongings and enough mileage to satisfy us as fit hill walkers, used to Cumbrian fells. We were also pleasantly surprised to find the trail was very quiet and it wasn’t unusual to only come across people (locals, mainly) when walking through villages. We would highly, highly recommend!

Yet beyond the landscapes, the kilometres and the simple joy of moving through such a peaceful corner of Greece, the real treasure was the time itself. In the busyness of our everyday lives, uninterrupted days together are rare. Sharing this journey with my sister, just the two of us, walking, talking and sometimes simply being felt truly invaluable.

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