I booked the Swedish Arctic Family Holiday as a New Year break for myself, my husband and our tweenager – Daniel. We were all very excited by the idea of being well into the Arctic Circle, Daniel was particularly fascinated by the idea that his eyelashes might freeze, even though I reeled off the list of far more exciting activities we would be doing that was the one which stood out in his mind.

We opted to travel to Kiruna via Stockholm which worked very well and allowed us to explore a little of Sweden’s handsome capital. It was a fascinating journey travelling over the snowy landscape and of course, the plane landed on a snowy runway, without any issues at all, unlike when a flake or two of snow can bring the UK to its knees. Our driver was there and we were whisked on a very short journey to Camp Ripan, our destination for the next few nights, in under 15 minutes – a dream of a transfer!

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Camp Ripan – what is it like?

The name Camp Ripan sounds as though it is small and in the middle of nowhere. That isn't the case. It is quite big, on the edge of Kiruna and has a cosmopolitan group of guests but it is very comfortable and very well-run. Accommodation is in a little cabin – ours had a kitchenette in the corner with a fridge, kettle and stove, a table and chairs, and there was a small room with bunk beds as well as a little vestibule to leave bulky coats and boots and a small shower room.

The main building has a reception area with seating, and is the place where you meet your activity leaders each day. There is also a gift shop, bar and restaurant area. Upstairs is an aurora viewing area with comfy loungers and large windows, as well as places to play board games and relax. There is also a clothing shop in case you’ve forgotten any essentials but this area also has equipment available for guests to borrow any tine they want – toboggans, mats and cross country skis and boots.

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What activities do you do?

When you arrive you are given your schedule of activities for your stay, including times for lunch and dinner. There’s very little to think about or organise as it is all done for you (hurrah, a week off the mum-organising!)

We drove snowmobiles across frozen lakes and through forest trails with a stop for a spot of ice-fishing the traditional Sami way, we went on a husky sled ride through similar forested landscapes, with a deliciously hot drink of lingonberry and a Swedish pastry in a Sami tent, we visited the Ice Hotel and marvelled at the temporary art which had been created, we met a herd of reindeer and fed some of them (watch out for fast-moving antlers near eyes!!) and we went snow shoeing at night with the mnost impressive display of dancing pink and green fire in the sky and our engaging guide Anders who made us a camp fire and kept us all enthralled with tales and folklore about the northern lights.

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What is the food like?

The food deserves a special mention – it was really high quality and the staff were great at explaining what it was and where it came from. As you are high up in the Arctic Circle, there is a lot of food based on local ingredients and traditional Sami food – expect lots of reindeer, moose and arctic char in many formats, as well as berries and herbs. We even had Swedish wine, who knew?! The vegetarian choices were fabulous too. My son particularly enjoyed chomping through bowls of reindeer carbonara. Our New Year feast was fantastic – the courses kept coming!

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What else is there to do?

As part of your holiday you are also allocated two two-hour slots at the Aurora Spa on the site. This experience was pure bliss – calming scandi décor, a bath-warm small indoor pool, various saunas and steam room experiences, donning a Camp Ripan woolly hat to bob outside to the outdoor hot tub, admiring the icicles on the staircase and watching incredulously at the hardier-than-us people who nonchalantly hopped down the steps into the plunge pool (and didn't even scream). You could help yourself to water with mint leaves or berry juice and you were given a footbath with juniper berries and a coffee face mask. There was plenty of comfy seating and views out over the snowy landscape, candles and soothing music. It was fabulous!

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Do I need to bring loads of clothing to stay warm?

You do need some snowwear – ski jackets and trousers which you can layer up with thermals, midlayers and down jackets are ideal You definitely don’t want to forget hat and waterproof gloves. Snow boots are perfect too as you do have quite a bit of time to have fun in the snow and wet socks are distinctly not fun. Camp Ripan will kit you up before all your activities and it is very worth while listening to their recommendations, the guides know what the weather will be like and you're better to have the layers on and with you than regret not taking them. If you forget any essentials there is a shop selling outdoor clothing on the site too.

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Is it always dark?

You are high above the Arctic Circle and therefore the days are very short, particularly around NEw Year, when we went. Despite my phone telling me that sunrise in Kiruna was at 11.30am and sunset was at 11.45am there was a surprising amount of twilight with lots of pretty pink skies. You quickly get used to the short days and it all sort of adds to the atmosphere of where you are. You are Scandinavia, the home of 'hygge' and Camp Riupan is cosily bedecked.

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What was your highlight?

The whole experience was incredible and one we've talked about numerous times since we came home. Richard loved the snowmobiles, Daniel the husky dogs and my personal highlight was definitely the sbow-shoeing activiity - one I'd seen as something on the itinerary which maybe wouldn't be as exciting as the other activities - and it ended up being the most magical evening. We drank water from fresh streams, our guide knew everything about wildlife tracks in the snow and sitting by the campfire made, drinking hot lingonberry juice and listening to his folklore tales of the Northern lights while they danced in the most amazing display was something we'll never forget.

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